My only concern is that the coils on both of my contactors are 12VDC, not 48VDC. I have sketched a confirmed wiring diagram of my system that may help in troubleshooting, I will post as soon as I can get it digital and legible! I've since replaced this wire, but no change. In the process of tracing and confirming wiring, I did find one of the 8GA wires, from the rear motor controller, eaten by a rat and barely hanging on.
SEVCON MILLIPAK CONTROLLER WIRING DIAGRAM CODE
However, after 5-minutes or so, one of the contactors pulls in and the right controller (front motor) begins flashing a 6-flash fault code, "high input voltage on throttle at startup." The left controller has always had the 3-flash code but this is the longest I've left the power hooked up, to see the right controller kick on. So after I hook up the main heavy gauge cable and red/yellow control power wire, my left controller (rear motor) immediately flashes 3-times fault code, which is "low resistance from M1 to B- or shorted coil on contactor," the right controller has no LED on intitially. Confident that the yellow wire that is spliced to a red wire is the 48VDC control power wire and should be landed on the + post of battery 8 Confirmed that my cart does not have a 48VDC contactor, as the schematic shows, the key switch supplies 48VDC control power to the system
Traced and confirmed all wiring to the two-Millipak controllers I did a little more troubleshooting last night and this is where I'm currently at: So, I just rewired the 12vcontrol section with a 30amp 12v relay per the drawing, and was off to the races. When I asked about a 12v control circuit, he simply replied "Nope, Most of the carts I've worked on switch 48v THROUGH the key switch"
SEVCON MILLIPAK CONTROLLER WIRING DIAGRAM CRACKED
That's clearly a toughie with very little documentation.įinally the other key that cracked the codeĪs a last resort, I spoke to a "cartguy" on the "JustAnswer" forum. Hard as I tried just couldn't find that relay.Īnd guys, I totally understand "the sound of crickets" when asking the forum about electrical problems on the BBB. There was 12v under the dash alright.the bunch of yellow wires had an unfused 12v picked off from the battery pack with a ground electrically separate from B. When I saw that the 48v section wire colors matched, I was finally showing some progress.Įven at that point though, the puzzler was that the drawing showed a 12 control relay that switched 48v to the contactors. Yes, this diagram was one of the keys to getting this BBB mess unscrewed. Then the controller 4 code settled down to a steady green and both axles drive.Īfter about 20 hours of time, mostly in research, its ready to give back to the owners. Yup, I had to replace the front contactor. So, its intelligent.Īnywho, this BBB came with the upgraded accelerator control and after the rewire, the contactors clicked, well at least one of them. One of the sevcon millipak controllers was showing a 4 flash code.Īpparently it checks the interlocks and inputs, then switches B- to energize the coil and if it doesn't see a current draw out to the motors, it says "hey the contactor is not energizing" and it throws the code. I learned a bunch alright, as i trudged through the repair. Yes, it took a bunch of time, but at least I know where the connections connected. I finally, whew, found a diagram that matched the 48v section of the machine, posted here, then I re-wired the 12v control section to match the schematic. I feel for all the folks that had to tie into the wiring for these "one off" machines. What appears to be a 2008 BB Classic, has been with me here since Nov 5th.Īfter the ratfest under the dash and $300 worth of service time at a local "cart shop" that left the very lightly used buggy completely dead, key switch disconnected and a number of wires pulled out of plug jacks.
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